Bhutan In Depth

The Kingdom of Bhutan has adopted a cautious approach to tourism to avoid any negative impact on the country’s culture and environment. All tourists, group or individual, must travel on a pre-planned all inclusive guided tour through a registered tour operator in Bhutan or their counterparts abroad. The basic rate is fixed by the government.
There are still plenty of takers wanting to explore the breathtaking mountains and valleys of this astonishing country. The tourism industry in Bhutan is founded on the principle of sustainability, meaning it must be environmentally friendly, socially and culturally acceptable and economically viable. The number of tourists is also kept to a manageable level by the limited infrastructure.

The Bhutanese name for Bhutan, Druk Yul, means’Land of the Thunder Dragon’. Much of Bhutanese history is lost in legends but the first major event was the arrival of Guru Rinpoche, believed to have brought Mahayana Buddhism from Tibet in the eighth century. Bhutan, the world’s  last  Mahayana  Buddhist kingdom, became a coherent political entity around the 17th century and has never been conquered or ruled by another foreign power. Bhutan is a peaceful country with strong traditional values based on religion, respect for the royal family and care for the environment.

Geography
Bhutan is located in the eastern Himalayas, bordered to the north by China and to the south, east and west by India. The altitude varies from 180m (590ft) in the narrow lowland region to over 7,300m (23,950ft) in the Himalayan plateau in the north, and there are three distinct climatic regions. The foothills are tropical and home to deer, tigers, leopards and the rare golden langur monkey as well as much tropical vegetation, including many species of wild orchids. The Inner Himalaya region is temperate; wildlife includes bear, boar and sambar, and the area is rich in deciduous forests. The High Himalaya region is very thinly populated, but the steep mountain slopes are the home of many species of animals, including snow leopards and blue sheep.
The Kingdom of Bhutan has adopted a very cautious approach to tourism in an effort to avoid the negative impacts of tourism on the country’s culture and environment. All tourists must travel on a pre-planned, pre-paid, guided package tour. Independent travel is not permitted. The package rate is fixed and controlled by the Government and is followed by all travel agents. There are still plenty of takers wanting to explore the breathtaking terrain of this astonishing country: the world’s last Buddhist kingdom.
Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, lies at a height of over 2400m (8000ft) in the fertile valley traversed by the Wangchhu River. In many ways it resembles a large, widely dispersed village rather than a capital. The Tashichhodzong is the main administrative and religious center of the country; it was rebuilt in 1961 after being damaged by fire and earthquake. Its hundred-odd spacious rooms house all the government departments and ministries, the National Assembly Hall, the Throne Room of the King and the country’s largest monastery, the summer headquarters of the Je Khempo and 2000 of his monks. The yearly  Thimphu  Festival is held in the courtyard directly in front of the National Assembly Hall. The Handicraft Emporium displays a wide assortment of beautifully handwoven and crafted products which make unique souvenirs. Simtokha, 8km (5 miles) from Thimphu, has Bhutan’s most ancient Dzong (fortified monastery).
The small town of Phuentsholing is a commercial and industrial center, as well as the gateway to Bhutan. A short walk from the hotel is the Kharbandi Monastery. Bhutan is well known for its stamps, and the best place to buy them is in Phuentsholing, where the Philatelic Office of Bhutan has its headquarters. The first and only department store of Bhutan is also in Phuentsholing. Punakha is the former capital of the country; situated at a lower altitude, it enjoys a comparatively benign climate. The valley contains many sacred temples, including Machin Lhakhag where the remains of Ngawang Namgyal, the unifier of Bhutan, are entombed. Tongsa is the ancestral home of the Royal family. The Dzong at Tongsa commands a superb view of the river valley and contains a magnificent collection of rhino horn sculptures. The district of Wangdiphodrang is known for its slate carving and bamboo weaving.
A visit to the Paro Valley, where the Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) Goemba clings dizzily to the face of a 900m (2952ft) precipice, is highly recommended. Legend has it that it was here that Guru Rinpoche flew into Bhutan on the back of a tiger and meditated in a cave for three months. Other attractions in the area include the Drukgyul Dzong, further up the Paro Valley (now in ruins after the earthquake in 1954), which once protected Bhutan against numerous Tibetan invasions; and the Paro Watchtower, which now houses the National Museum of Bhutan. The temperate Punakha Valley houses many sacred temples, including the Machin Lhakhag in the Punakha Dzong. The 3100m- (10,170ft-) high Dochu La Pass commands a breathtaking view of the eastern Himalayan chain. You may even spot Bhutan’s national animal, the takin – a peculiar-looking beast.
Bumthang is the starting point for four- and seven-day cultural tours through the rural villages, including Mongar. Tashigang, a silk-spinning district, has an interesting Dzong.

Useful information can be obtained from Medieval Bhutan Tours (website: www.medievalbhutan.com).

Activities

Much of the pleasure of visiting Bhutan is enjoying the breathtaking scenery by trekking around the valleys and the mountain gorges. Climbing some of the Himalayan peaks is banned, however, due to the belief that the mountains are the repository of the gods. Similarly, swimming, or even throwing stones into rivers, is forbidden: it is thought to disturb the souls of deities. However, mountain biking along Paro Valley is an exhilarating and recommended experience. The country boasts over 320 varieties of birds, including the rare black-necked crane. The Manas Game Sanctuary has a wide variety of  wildlife (a special permit is necessary). Archery (datse) is the national sport and borders on an obsession. Competitions are held frequently, providing an opportunity for the visitor to appreciate the skills of the Bhutanese in their national sport. These events usually prove fun and raucous, with alcohol consumed freely but the male-only archers, whilst female ‘cheerleaders’ rally support for their husbands and/or male members of their family, shouting lewd and disparaging comments at the opponents, often concerning their sexual prowess.

Social Conventions
The lifestyle, manners and customs of the Bhutanese are in many respects unique to the area. The strongest influence on social conventions is the country’s state religion, and everywhere one can see the reminders of Buddhism and the original religion of Tibet, Bonism. There are no rigid clan systems and equal rights exist between men and women. The majority of the Bhutanese live an agrarian lifestyle.

In 1989, it was made compulsory for citizens to wear national dress and failure to comply at official functions or in government buildings incurs a fine; the men wear a gho, a robe resembling a dressing gown with upturned white cuffs and knee-high socks, whilst the women wear a kira, a sari-like garment that is furnished with ornate brooches, and worn over a blouse. Bhutan has outlawed the sale of tobacco products, and also banned smoking in public places. Healthcare and education are free. The political leaders of the country have also been religious leaders historically.

For years the country has deliberately isolated itself from visitors, a policy which is now to some extent being reversed. But Bhutan continues to bear the hallmarks of seemingly peculiar customs borne from legacy and legend. Giant phalluses can often be seen painted onto walls, etc, in order to ward off evil spirits and ensure good crops and healthy children. Climbing some of the Himalayan peaks is banned due to the belief that the mountains are the repository of the gods and all life, animal or plant, is treated with respect as a divine gift.

International Travel:

Getting There by Air
Druk Air (KB) (website: www.drukair.com.bt), the national airline of Bhutan, is the only airline serving Bhutan. It is compulsory for all visitors to Bhutan to travel at least one-way by Druk Air. Druk Air operates flights from Kolkata (Calcutta), Gaya and New Delhi (India), Dhaka (Bangladesh), Kathmandu (Nepal) and Bangkok (Thailand). The Kathmandu-Paro flight has fabulous views of the Himalaya on the left-hand side.

Druk Air will only issue tickets after visa clearance (arranged by Tour Operator).

Departure Tax
Usually included in the ticket price.

Main Airports
Paro (PBH), Bhutan’s only airport, is located in a deep valley, some 2,190m (7,200ft) above sea level, surrounded by hills and high mountains. Operating conditions are fairly difficult and inclement weather can cause delays (allow extra time for connections on the return journey). To/from the airport:Transfers to Paro (journey time 20 minutes) and Thimphu (1 hour) are organized by Tour Operators or hotels.

Facilities: The airport has a bank counter and bureau de change, a cafeteria, VIP lounge, duty-free shop and a couple of small gift shops.

Departure Tax
Usually included in the ticket price.

Main Airports
Paro (PBH), Bhutan’s only airport, is located in a deep valley, some 2,190m (7,200ft) above sea level, surrounded by hills and high mountains. Operating conditions are fairly difficult and inclement weather can cause delays (allow extra time for connections on the return journey). To/from the airport:Transfers to Paro (journey time 20 minutes) and Thimphu (1 hour) are organized by Tour Operators or hotels.

Facilities: The airport has a bank counter and bureau de change, a cafeteria, VIP lounge, duty-free shop and a couple of small gift shops.

Departure Tax
Usually included in ticket price.

Getting There by Rail
The nearest railhead is Siliguri (India).

Getting There by Road
The road from Siliguri (West Bengal) enters Bhutan at the border town of Phuentsholing, which is 179km (111 miles) from Thimphu, and borders West Bengal, India. The crossing into India at Samdrup Jongkhar in eastern Bhutan can be closed at times due to political unrest from Assam separatists.

Overview
The following goods may be imported into Bhutan.

• 200 cigarettes.
• 1l of spirits.
• Personal effects for daily use, instruments or appliances for professional use and electronic equipment for personal use.

Note: Cameras, videos, mobile telephones and all other electronic equipment for personal use must be registered with the authorities on arrival and will be checked by customs on departure. Import of plants/soil is subject to quarantine. All tobacco will be subject to a 200% custom tax on arrival.
Prohibited Imports
Firearms, narcotics, plants.

Prohibited Exports
The export of antiques, religious objects, manuscripts, images and anthropological materials is strictly prohibited (regarded as those 100 years or older) and closely monitored by the Bhutanese authorities.

Internal Travel:

Getting Around By Air
There are no domestic airline routes within Bhutan.

Getting Around by Road
Traffic drives on the left. The country has a fairly good internal road network with well over 3,000km (1,800 miles) of surfaced road. The average speed is less than 40kph (25mph). The main routes run north from Phuentsholing to the western regions of Paro and Thimphu, and west-east, across the Pele La Pass and Thrumshing La Pass to the central valleys and eastern regions. The northern regions of the High Himalayas have no roads. Tour operators will arrange all internal travel for tourists, which will usually be by road.

Bus: Buses are often crowded and journeys slow due to the mountainous terrain. Yaks, ponies and mules are still a main form of transportation in remote areas. The main routes are from Phuentsholing to Thimphu, Thimphu to Bumthang, Bumthang to Tashigang, Tashigang to Samdrup Jongkar and from Tongsa to Gaylegphug but as a rule, local buses are not for tourists.

Journey Times
The following chart gives approximate journey times (in hours and minutes) from Thimphu to other major towns in the country.